Day 45. Liverpool, NY. 94 miles. 1,600 ft climb

A Mule Named Sal.    Today's 94 mile ride started out with cycling about 20 miles on a bike trail along the Erie Canal, which was historically very interesting.  In fact, the New York route is basically following the Erie Canal route, which was designed as an all water, no portage route from the Atlantic (actually, the Hudson River in NYC) to the Great Lakes and opened in 1825.  Western NY saw a big population surge as a result of legislation in 1817 establishing the route for the canal.

Erie Canal Houseboat

Riders Were Required To Walk Bikes Along Some Erie Canal Sections

But Terry Was Riding On This Section

 Before giving more details of today, though, there's a postscript to yesterday's blog.

Throughout the trip so far, there have been the occasional gripes by other bloggers about the food (boring, same old same old) and the motels (some good ones, but lots with lousy internet, not great service, far from restaurants).  Probably both  road fatigue and the last straw of a bad motel combined to spark a mini rebellion in the peloton yesterday.   Apparently, today's motel rooms were the worst--with torn carpeting, cracked walls, mold, dysfunctional plumbing, and crummy internet service.  Riders really complained to the Handlers.    Terry hasn't really mentioned it, but I saw from other blogs that it was quite an issue.    The saving grace of last evening was that Steve's sister-in-law lives nearby and the laundromat bunch (Terry, Steve, Dan and Travis) went to her home for a steak barbeque and sitting on the back porch with some locally brewed beer.  Apparently, New York state has the most micro-breweries in the country.   It was great evening!!  The only downside was that it meant a little late to bed for Terry, and with a 94 mile ride today, he felt a little tired.  Well worth it, though.

Steve's Favorite: Pork Slap Beer

Another last---the last long ride of the tour.  As mentioned above, it started out on the Erie Canal bike path, under overcast and spitting skies.  Then, it was more rural roads.  The route is just north of the Finger Lakes region, but won't really drop down into that.   At first, it wasn't really worth putting on rain gear, but as the day wore on, the skies grew darker and finally opened up, about 2 hrs before getting to Liverpool.   Once again, Zippy was drenched to the bone, but wasn't close to hypothermia.   Just miserable.   Everyone arrived safely, but all looked liked drowned rats.  Now the challenge is getting everything to dry by the morning, especially the bike shoes.   The wet clothes are now all draped around the room and on the heater. 

I sure hope that conditions, both outside and lodging, improve in these final days......stay tuned.

Day 44. Henrietta, NY. 82 miles. 1,550 ft climb

Recovery. Everyone was well rested from the day off and ready to get back on the road.  The weather was great, warm and sunny with a mild tailwind all day.  Getting out of  Niagara Falls was the worst part--through the depressed city on bad roads with heavy traffic and rude drivers, and through several areas of road construction.  But once out, they were on country roads that were in good shape with good shoulders and little traffic.  They rode through green rolling hills with heavy areas of woodland and small rural neighborhoods, which turned into farm land with corn fields and some other crops.  The route was fairly flat with a few small hills to go over, with a tailwind so everyone made good time..    It seems that dog-toy-tough-Terry is pretty much back to his form and barely feeling any effects of the Mt. Rushmore tumble.  He rode most of today with the Fasties, who welcomed him with "You're in fine form!".

Rolling to Henrietta

More Rollers

Typical Upstate New York

Colin Rolls Along

It May Be Flat Now, But Hills Are A'Comin'

Zippy says everyone is counting down the days now, with both excitement and sadness.  Just six--SIX!!--more days left, with some pedaling along the Erie Canal and tackling two very tough climbs on the third-to-last and second-to-last days. 

Thought I'd introduce you to the ABB Handlers, who have done such an amazing job on organization, support, mechanical and medical repairs, attention to detail and making it all fun!  No, they didn't pay me to put this in here. 

The Crew--They've been together  5 years
Debbie, Mike, Barbara, Jeff, Karen, and Jim

Debbie:  SAG Support, 6 yrs with ABB, Rode ABB 3 times, Staffed 11 tours
Mike:  Ride Leader/Mechanic, with ABB since 1997, Led 48 ABB tours

Barbara (Mike's wife): Logistics/Mom, with ABB since 1999, staffed 42 ABB tours
Jeff:  Deputy Ride Leader, 7 yrs with ABB, Rode twice as rider, Led 3 tours, staffed 8 rides
Karen: SAG Support, 11 yrs with ABB, Rode once as rider, staffed 39 tours
Jim: Mechanic, 7 yrs with ABB, staffed 16 tours

Kudos to all!!!

Day 43. Niagara Falls, NY. 0 miles. 0 ft climb

Playing Tourist.   Interestingly, the Canadian side is not part of any national or provincial park and this is what has allowed for the heavy commercialization of that side.

Niagara Falls, Canada

The New York side is State Park land, and there is a grassy and forested buffer on the edge of the Falls area, making for a more peaceful and natural setting.  One just hears the roar of the falls and feel the mist from that side, not interrupted by anything commercial.

Niagara Falls, New York

Niagara Falls State Park, Founded in 1885

Last night, the Falls were lit up with a light show and fireworks, a bit Disneyesque, but still pretty.

Today, Terry and most others took the classic tourist ride on the Maid of The Mist boat to get up close and personal with Niagara and Horseshoe Falls.   They were decked out in "tailored" plastic bags, shaped garbage bags basically, that covered the head and whole body.

Russell, I think

Terry And Others On Board Maid Of The Mist With A Rainbow

Maid Of The Mist & Horseshoe Falls

Despite the cliche of it all, it was quite spectacular.  Many of the group hadn't been to Niagara Falls for many decades, and really enjoyed this excursion.  The boat gets right near the two falls and the spray is huge.  It creates rainbows in every direction.   Looking up, through the spray, one can see the Falls and nothing else.   The amount of falling water is amazing.  The currents are very strong and it's obvious how powerful these boats are.  Horseshoe Falls is the more dramatic of the two.   The spray from it is enormous!

After the boat ride, Terry and others walked on top of the Falls on paths which take them over both Falls, the rivers that feed them and over Goat Island which separates them.  The views are dramatic everywhere.   

Niagara Falls, Goat Island, Horseshoe Falls Panorama

After lunch, Terry relaxed and took a nap.  Later this evening, he had a wonderful picnic dinner  on Goat Island with a small group of riders and Steve and his parents, who had flown up from Georgia (as in piloted a private plane) and brought the great food.

Julie & Terry at Picnic.  Julie has been sending me the photos from Terry's camera.  And Travis sent me this,  Thanks Travis &  Julie!!

 Tomorrow's start of the LAST week of cycling, en route to Portsmouth, New Hampshire.  Even though they have come over the largest mountains in the US, some of the hardest rides are still ahead, crossing the Green Mountains in Vermont and New Hampshire.  There are just a little over 500 miles to go.   Unbelievable!

Day 42. Niagara Falls, NY. 72 miles 1,400 ft climb

In A New York State Of Mind.

Add caption

Terry With Irish Damian and London Lucy

At The SAG Stop In Ontario

 After an easy, pleasant 72 miles through rolling hills and with a nice tailwind for push and cloud cover for comfort (although the sun emerged just as they got to the Falls), the riders took in the sights of Niagara Falls from both the Canadian side and the New York side.   Along with thousands of other tourists.

The Needle in Niagara Falls,  Canada

 To Terry's and most others' dismay, the Canadian side has become a tacky tourist trap, with cheap motels, T-shirt shops, amusement park rides and high rises lining the shores.   The New York side has much less of that, so the view from the Canadian side over to NY is a more pleasant one.  Still, nothing can really take away the grandeur and magnificence of the falls themselves.   Many riders rode a fast pace so they could get there and enjoy the views. 

Taking In The Niagara Falls Sights

They crossed the Rainbow Bridge from Niagara Falls, Canada  to Niagara Falls, New York, and then endured a rather long line through customs, along with cars and pedestrians.   The riders didn't go through as a group this time; in fact, they were asked to break into smaller groups of 3's and 4's.

Trying To Get Back to the USA

 The line that Terry was in with his little group apparently had some drama, as someone in a car ahead of them was arrested on the spot, handcuffed,  and taken away.  Sniffer dogs were around the car, and it caused some delay.   At first, the riders were impatient, but Terry reminded them that their rooms wouldn't be ready anyway at the motel, so why not just go with the flow and watch the "excitement".   The Customs Agent asked routine questions:  Where did you come from?, How long were you in Canada?, Where are you going?   Terry was grateful that his short-term memory didn't fail him.

Rainbow Bridge

Tour Stats:   3,144 miles.   90,275 ft climb.    8 States, 1 Canadian Province......and rolling.............

I think a special thank you is appropriate at this time to Mike Munk, the ABB tour leader.  I can't imagine dealing with all the zillions of details that he does every day to make it all work, and see to it that the riders and their bikes arrive safely every day.  He heads a fantastic team, all of whom deserve huge thanks and gratitude from the riders and their loved ones, who will all breathe just a little easier when they arrive in Portsmouth, NH.

Thanks, Mike!!!

Tomorrow is the last REST DAY.   Terry plans to take one of the boat rides under the falls, as will many of the other riders.   After the last Rest Day, they are in the home stretch with only 7 more days. The last week.  The Lasts of the Lasts.   Unbelievable!!!    I'll be flying out one week from today, one day ahead of them, to get ready to greet Terry and the riders at Wallis Sands State Park beach in Rye, New Hampshire.

Day 41. Brantford, Ontario. 66 miles. 1,250 ft climb

Today was the gift from the weather gods they were waiting for.   Beautiful blue sunny skies, low 70's in the morning and mid 80's by the afternoon, low humidity and a mild tailwind most of the day.  The words "perfect day for a bike ride" were posted on lots of blogs today.

London Lucy.  Terry Is Trying To Catch Up

The scenery continues to be much the same, farms, barns, small towns, pretty houses with lots of flowers.   A new crop has turned up:  tobacco.   And ginseng farms, which export the ginseng to China.    A side benefit to going through farm country is that farmers set up fresh produce stands along the road, and the hungry cyclists buy up everything on the tables.   Some they eat right there, and some goes into the SAG Wagons as supplies for later.  Having such fresh fruit and produce is a real treat!

YUM!!

 The calorie-consumption report from Terry is good:   two Klondike Bars and one large piece of carrot cake so far today, and that's before the SAG stop or dinner.   He really needs to calorie load because he's actually lost about 5 pounds....and there wasn't a spare ounce on him to begin with.

Terry's Two Klondike Bars, Gary and Matt

 Except for the currency and the accents of the locals, there's not much difference between Ontario and Michigan.   Terry thinks the drivers aren't as tolerant of cyclists, though.  They crowd the riders and generally seem impatient.  One cyclist actually stopped at a bike shop and bought a jersey with the Canadian Maple Leaf on it, and swears that the drivers have been more courteous to him.  

According to Travis, Brantford is nicknamed The Telephone City.  It was here in 1876 that Alexander Graham Bell — then a resident of the town — made the first “long distance” phone call to another city.  The call went all the way to Paris — Ontario, not France.  Brantford is also the hometown of Jay Silverheels — better known as Tonto in the Lone Ranger TV series.   Travis tells a cute Lone Ranger joke on his blog.  I have one, also, which I can't tell here, but it was part of a Lenny Bruce routine.  'Nuf said.

Rolling Into Brantford

Or, if you'd rather know a different part of the Brantford history, this comes from Mike:  Brantford’s history can be traced back for more than three centuries to the time when native tribes led by Chief Joseph Brant lived in the area.  He was better known to his people of the Six Nations as Thay-en-da-negea.  His statue, made of melted down French cannons (many of which were used in the Battle of Waterloo) in 1886, stands in Victoria Park in downtown Brantford.  Chief Brant led his people from their lands in the Mohawk Valley of upper NY to the Grand River basin where they crossed the river.  This spot became known as Brant's ford...and thus began the name, location, and history of Brantford, Ontario.

Chief Brant's Statue

Holy Blazing Saddles!!  This map shows that they are really in the home stretch.   Tomorrow, it's on to Niagara Falls,crossing back into the US and a REST DAY, and then no rest until they reach the Atlantic Ocean!!

Amen!!!

Day 40. London, Ontario. 82 miles. 1,500 ft climb

London (Ontario).   Must make Zippy a bit homesick for England, just by the sound of it.  There were many other English place names:  Wanstead, Warwick, Hyde Park, Sherwood Forest, Trafalgar Heights and more.  It was even overcast and drizzly, to make him really feel like he never left England.  But this really was Canada. Now they have to deal with Loonies and Toonies for two days.  OK, I'll tell you, if don't know.  The Loonie is the picture on the Canadian dollar bill, as in Common Loon.  Toonies are two Loonies.

Before telling you about the crossing over the Blue Water Bridge, I just learned something very funny from Ian, one of Terry's boyhood friends in England.   Zippy was a character in a children's program, somewhat like Sesame Street.   This Zippy was loud and domineering, but usually very funny (albeit not to the other characters in the show).  He was actually a rugby ball, with a body attached.  His mouth was a zip, and when he became too bossy or irritating, this would be zipped shut to prevent him from continuing.  On at least one occasion, he unzipped himself, though he appeared unable to do so on other occasions.  Totally different circumstances, but the end result seems to be the same.     LOL!!!

Last night's preparation for the bridge crossing was quite strict.  According to Steve, it went like this:  "The Handlers are nervous as cats.  .....The bridge  is the second busiest transportation artery between the United States and Canada.  Accordingly, they close the highway!  Nobody is going to Canada on the second busiest transportation artery between the United States and Canada until this little group meanders across.  Upon penalty of death there will be no stopping for pictures (this bunch takes a LOT of pictures, this rule will be impossible), we will smile at the Canadian authorities, we will speak when spoken to and at no other time.  Tonight’s briefing sounded a lot like going somewhere with my parents."  Mike also warned that anyone late to the departure in the morning will be left behind!!

Mike Giving Instructions At A RAP Meeting

 After a night of thunderstorms and lightening and pouring rain until 15 minutes before the departure time,   the actual crossing seemed to go very well. The entire ABB peloton was positioned at the hotel at 6:45 am.  An escort car drove up with lights flashing and worked out the final details with Mike about which lane to ride in, which toll gate to pass through, and where to go on the Canadian side to get to Customs.  They will have  both lanes of Canadian inbound traffic closed  before the bridge and it won't be re-opened until they're across.    Mike informed the group that he will be in the lead SAG van with the rear door open to keep tabs (and take photos).  Jeff, another handler, will be the lead cyclist. The rest of the instructions were: " No one was allowed to get in front of Jeff.  There are two large expansion joints on the bridge--one on the uphill and one on the downhill.  You can't ride over them--they'll swallow bike tires.  You must dismount and walk over them.  Remember, the road is wet .  Don't stop, don't look around, don't think about anything else but following Jeff over the bridge."

Dutifully, the riders followed.  Zippy was towards the front. The Bridge was, of course, totally empty.  Up they went, dismount, over the expansion joint, remount, down they go, dismount, over the expansion joint, remount, and off the bridge at the first exit.  Then comes getting through Customs/Passport Control.  The Custom Agents' only instruction was, "Don't take any photos of the headquarters building or of us".  Zippy was impressed with how efficiently and quickly this went.   The Customs agents already had a list of all the riders.  The riders went through in a line by one of 6 Custom Officers, who checked the passport to see if it matched the face of the rider and that they were on the list.  One of the riders (nicknamed Rocket Scientist) works on high security defense projects, and he was on some list that caused a bit of a delay.   But, all in all, a perfect crossing.

Pre-departure Gathering In Hotel Parking Lot

Keeping In Formation

Mind The Gap

Karina On Bridge---An Illegal Photo!!!

Waiting To Clear Customs

After the riders were off the bridge, the traffic was let through.   My thought was that the people in the cars (and a lot were trucks) were either very curious or very furious about what all this was about!

Once in Canada, the ride was pretty much like the rides in Michigan---lots of farms and flat roads.   Travis and Terry (and I'm sure others) stopped in Delaware, Ontario for lunch.   Jeez, a person can get dizzy with these place names---now we're reminded of the little state of Delaware!   Anyway, Terry looks happy.

Day 39. Port Huron, MI. 87 miles. 800 ft. climb

Land O' Lakes.    From one Great Lake (Michigan) to another (Huron) and another (Ontario).   Today's arrival at the gateway to Canada has Zippy and everyone else very excited and charged up.   Not so much about going into Canada, though that will be fun, but because they get to cross the Blue Water Bridge, a large 6,100 ft. span, going over Lake Huron.  There were both American and Canadian flags at the beginning and, presumably, at the other side.  The water is actually quite blue and very clear.  Their hotel is right at the foot of the bridge, similar to the start way back in Astoria, Oregon.

Can't Quite Tell Here, But The Water Is Blue

To get all the cyclists across is quite a big deal.   Without stealing the thunder from my blog for tomorrow, I'll just say that after getting all the requisite bureaucratic permissions, the authorities actually stop all traffic on the bridge and the riders get a full escort over, as they cycle in full peloton formation, all wearing their ABB jerseys.   I'm sure it will be really fun!    Terry was really taken with the beauty of the bridge and surrounding waters and suggested we take at least one vacation in these parts.  Sounds good to me. 

The Bridge Will Be Closed

 Today started, though, with some trepidation about the weather.  At 5:00 am, there was a major thunderstorm, torrential rains which dumped 4 " of rain and miserable conditions.   The start was delayed by 30 minutes while the ABB handlers tried to find out more about the storm's predictions.  It was supposed to pass over by 7:00, and lo and behold, it did.  So, everyone saddled up and got going, but brought rain gear with them just in case.   It stayed threatening all day, but never actually rained again.  In fact, the heavy cloud cover produced really nice riding conditions.   I think the worst of it was that riders & bikes got really dirty from all the road spray that was kicked up. 

More Farm Lands

 The ride took them through more agricultural areas and scenic, small towns.  Happy Faces greeted riders.

Smile, Mike!

 One in particular seemed to be a favorite among the riders:  Yale, Michigan, which claims to be the bologna capital of the world.  Seriously.  The annual Yale Bologna Festival starts tomorrow, but unfortunately will be missed by our hearty riders.

Anything For A Party

 Tomorrow they get international miles for two days, then on to Niagara Falls and a REST DAY.  That will be the LAST Rest Day of the tour.   Can you believe they are almost in New York State????

Crossing The Great Lakes